I thought some members may find this informative.
You are subscribed to the thread "Oil change for CX-5" by burleyhotel11, there have been 1 post(s) to this thread, the last poster was Timmmay.
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Posted by: Timmmay
On: 01-08-2015 02:18 PM
---Quote (Originally by katana)---
Some people refuse to run 0-20 for all kinds of stupid reasons (it's too thin! or... I live in the desert- it's hot!).
Well, until you do an oil analysis, you really don't know!
I live in the desert. At first change, changed to 0-20 penzoil (the stuff made from natural gas).
We saw temps hit triple digits here, drove around vegas when it was 110, saw high way speeds of 95mph+ with triple digit temps. I ran the car hard, wife made a lot of short trips, then, I changed it after 8,000 miles.
I sent a sample to Blackstone labs (it is posted on the mazda 247 site).
Result? Excellent across the board. Iron was a little high but they said that was because there was residual metal in the motor from breakin (this was the first oil change) They recomended going 10,000 miles next time.
I actually think the heat helped your oil longevity. 0w-20 is still SAE 20 oil. (The initial "cold" weight is 0 but the operating weight is 20.) Considering your climate likely didn't even come close to freezing, and Skyactive has an incredibly aggressive (and wasteful) warm-up cycle, the oil probably reached operating temperature in under 60 seconds.
0w-20 is a great oil weight, if the engine is built for it. Those with low-tolerance engines like older, low compression Ford 302's (and even 289's) and especially GM 351's (some Vette owners blame engine leaks and lost compression on this weight of oil) should stick to 10w or potentially 5w on newer\rebuilt models with aluminum heads.
High compression import/European engines generally work great with 0w-20 with a slight improvement in fuel efficiency and longevity because the initial wear is reduced as the oil control rings simply function better with thinner oil. 0w oil in Skyactive is critical since Mazda uses a ceramic plasma coating on the compression ring which is ultra hard and will sheer an improperly protected sleeve. According to Mazda, 5w-20 is still adequate in warmer climates (it's the recommended oil weight in the Central America market) but 10w-20 or any SAE 30 oil will probably cause abnormally high metal content in an oil analysis.
High iron content in an oil analysis isn't unusual, especially on a new engine. It should level out around 30k. The most important details I look at in an oil analysis are fuel content (for obvious reasons) and chromium content since this is what piston rings are made of. Flashpoint and viscosity tells you how well the oil itself is holding up, but any quality oil should hold up with flying colors, and how well the oil holds up doesn't tell you anything about the engine condition. It's what's in the oil that is important. I know people make a big deal about iron, but the truth is it's highly variable because everything releases iron. Unless it's abnormally high (like quadruple your last sample or a magnitude over the baseline) it's really irrelevant and can be a byproduct of dozens of things. Timing chains, sprockets, valves, cams, and even spark plugs release iron, so using it to diagnose a problem is like looking for a habitable planet in space. Other tests are simply more
dependable to narrow down these issues (visual inspection, compression test, ECU diagnostics.)
Anyway, glad you're having good results with Pennzoil, it's one of my favorite oils for the price.
All the best,
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It's hard to break old habits that us older folks grew up with but I am slowly coming around to believe in these longer oil changes that the newer engines come with. 5K -7500K is pretty much standard now and the thinner oil is a necessity for cold start circulation and thicker oils will void the warranty of these new tighter engines. The oil filler cap specifies the correct weight that must be used.
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